Re: Newbie BIO and a ques

Matt Bittner (
Mon, 23 Oct 1995 07:31:53 -0500

On 20 Oct 95 at 22:56, typed diligently and opened
another can of worms:

> First of all I would like to thank Shane (somewhere in Australia) for
> providing me the information concerning the WWI listserver.
> Short bio: 22 years active Army (now retired), employed by the state of VA,
> married 23 years, dabbled in different hobbies over the years, low-output (at
> present), prefer WWI aircraft w/an occassional WWII Plane/Armor model.

Welcome! Although you'll get "happy flames" for modeling other than
WW1, we're a relatively safe bunch, here. BTW, what scale?

> Q. With regards to WWI cockpits, what was the general scheme as far as colors
> for the inside of the fabric surfaces and/or plywood sheeting?

Ohhh...This is good...

With planes that were Clear Doped at the factory, then a color
representing a clear doped linen would suffice. This is usually an
"off-cream" color - if there is such a thing. I would even paint the
plane clear doped in the cockpit when the plane was painted in the
field. My reasoning for this - and others please correct me if I'm
wrong - is that since the plane was "shellaced" with a protective
coat, then any paint applied after the protective coat wouldn't
"penetrate" tha fabric. Hence, clear doped. I would even include
the olive-streaked Fokkers in this (although I'm probably wrong about
this one).

For wood, it would depend on what type of wood the plane was made
from. Plywood? Then a "warm-yellow". Mahogany? Then a deeper
brown. For other types of wood, just paint it what you think the
wood looked like back then.

For lozenge covered fuselages, then take some lozenge decals and
"reverse" them as you apply. This would give the impression of
"reversed" lozenge fabric on the inside.



Matthew Bittner WW1 Modeler, ecto subscriber, semi-new dad, PowerBuilder developer; Omaha, Nebraska
Disclaimer: opinions expressed by me are my responsibility only.

"Villians I say to you now: knock off all that evil!"
- The Tick