Re: Intro and question

Matt Bittner (
Tue, 5 Sep 1995 09:37:11 -0500

On 4 Sep 95 at 23:44, muttered:

> Hi to all.
> I've been lurking in the background for a while and
> have finally had a chance to introduce myself. First,
> one comment about this list -- I haven't met a more
> gentlemanly group of members of a mailing list since
> signing on the internet. It has been an enjoyable and
> educational experience.

Even though a lurker, welcome! The more, the marrier.

> I am back into building models after a 20 yr hiatus.
> I spent 16 of these years in the Air Force as a
> B-52 bombarier (good training for life after 40) and
> am trying to start a new hobby store in Puyallup, WA.
> All of my modeling experience is in Cold War bombers,
> but I needed a challenge. So I've recently purchased
> a 1/72 Airfix Sopwith Pup and Eduard Baby. Coming to
> this mailing list I thought lozenge was something one
> took for a sore throat (I won't even tell you what I
> thought Methuen was).

At least you've got the scale right! ;-) You couldn't have picked
better kits to get started with. The Baby has practically all you
could want in a kit, and the Pup is the easiest kit to introduce you
how to correct the many WW1 kits out there. :-)

> I have 5 children. The oldest boy builds Star Wars
> models. The younger boy builds cars and trucks. The
> youngest boy is developmentaly disabled, but enjoys
> building any model, then tearing it apart so I can
> help him put it together again. My two girls are too
> young to build, but old enough to do a lot of damage.
> Thank you for the thread on storage!
> Finally, the question. I've never build a model with
> photoetched parts and was wondering if there is any
> preparation I need to do before assembly or painting
> (such as washing the parts).

You really don't need to wash the parts. The best thing for
photoetch is to "anneal" the parts, i.e. pass them through a hot
flame. This will serve two purposes: (1) will "burn" any release
agents/glue off the parts, and (2) will enable the parts to bend
easily. You don't have to anneal all parts, but it's definitely
recommended for seatbelts, etc. or any part that needs

Again, welcome to the list.


Matthew Bittner WW1 Modeler, ecto subscriber, new dad, PowerBuilder developer; Omaha, Nebraska

Hickory Dickory Dock
Two Mice ran up the clock
The clock struck one
And the other escaped with minor injuries